Wednesday, 27 April 2022

Sparrow City

 Alexander Neckham [the then abbot] claimed in the 13th century that way back in the 6th century  due to wars between the Saxons and Britons the city of Cirencester was besieged for six years, but the Saxons couldn't break it. That is until one day when their leader noticed the many sparrows who spent their days feeding in the fields and their nights roosting in the thatch rooves. Apparently [this is now beginning to sound less and less plausible] the Saxons managed to catch all the spadgers and tie burning straw to their tails so that their return to the city dwellings would set everything ablaze and force the Britons to flee. It makes for a dramatic story🔥🔥 irrespective of whether this medieval account is true or not.

Our visit to Cirencester thankfully went off without a hitch and not a hint of drama. We were staying a few minutes outside the city centre so we able to leave the car at the hotel and just walk. It is by far and away my favourite way to travel with much better opportunities to snoop about😆

We started off along Gloucester Street which is full of lots of lovely old buildings all in that gorgeous creamy stone that the area is known for.  The cottage below is called "Tatty Marsh" and was built in 1796,. It's one of a series of cottages supposedly built for the "drowners" who were the men who looked after the water meadows. It's all very tastefully done with greys, sage greens, creams and then one person went rogue and thought s*d that for a game of soldiers I'm having a pink door....I just love it when people do that! Further along I stuck my big snout up an alley and found the rather attractive hidden view.

On our way into the town centre we passed these arches which are the remains of the chantry and hospital of St John the Evangelist. It was set up by Henry I in 1133 as a place for travellers to rest and the destitute to live. It eventually came to be owned by the local abbey and as is always the way, it was brought to its knees by the Henry VIII's reforms in 1539.


The Augustinian abbey of St Mary was established a few years earlier in 1117, but not consecrated until 1176 by Henry II. Nowadays there's literally only the gatehouse [shown below] still standing and a handful of paltry stones remaining in the Abbey grounds. Much of the masonry was incorporated into later buildings round the town. I enjoyed the little detail that the archaeological digs had revealed- the ceiling was once adorned with gilded stars to make it look like the heavens.


Whilst the Abbey grounds might be sorely lacking in the Abbey stakes these days it does hold a treasure trove of other delights. I showed the mosaic wall last week, but there's all this too. This wasn't the only hare I saw. I gather they were part of the Hare Trail in 2018. I'm sure most people won't understand my excitement at seeing the metal bench....confidently I told Mr GBT I thought it was Victorian. Turns out I was right as Victoria's Jubilee plaque left me in no doubt.





Our outward destination was the Roman ampitheatre which has stood here since the 2nd century [although nowadays it's just the earth banks which would have supported the seating for the 8000 visitors who came to be entertained]. Since the Romans abandoned left it behind it's gone on to be used as a market place, a fortress and even a medieval rabbit warren. Nowadays it's become a popular spot for dogwalkers to throw the ball as you can get it quite a long way in that enclosed space!



Making our way back just a few bits and bobs for your delectation. The doorstep mosaic is the work of Debbie Stirling. Inspired by Vix's visit earlier in the year I thought we'd love it and I am thrilled to say Cirencester didn't disappoint.







Arilx




9 comments:

  1. I'm so glad you enjoyed Cirencester. We need to go back and see that amphitheatre. You certainly packed a lot in.
    Isn't it a wonderful place? we find it really friendly and welcoming! xxx

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    1. I enjoyed several chats with people. We had one meal in the pub you went to and another one in a smashing independent Italian restaurant up one of the alleys. Arilx

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  2. Oh you saved the best to last - that 'cat in the window' - brilliant! I love that it has a fishy thought too :D

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    1. Well spotted Kate...I hadn't seen the fish! Arilx

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  3. I now have another village to research for some future trip. I love joining you all on the short getaways in your country. I feel like I've a tour guide.

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    1. It's not as touristy as some of the other towns in the Cotswolds because it doesn't have a station. It would be a good place to base yourself at and then explore from there. Arilx

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  4. Well now I have added yet another place to my 'next time' list!

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    1. I think you'd like it. Very picturesque. Arilx

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  5. Um....tying a burning straws to a sparrow? Maybe tying burning straw to an arrow. Still it is a charming little town I love the painted rabbit.

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