Last post from Avebury for you. This small Wiltshire village is known primarily for parts of it being built within its world famous Neolithic complex of stone circles, avenues and henges. So often I read that churches were deliberately built directly on former pagan sites [Knowlton is slap bang in the middle of a henge http://gnatbottomedtowers.blogspot.com/search?q=knowlton]. St James does not follow this pattern and I, for one, find it interesting to note that the Saxons deliberately chose a site very much outside the circle. For what reason one can only guess, but my pet theory is that maybe there was still some residual belief in the old gods and they didn't want to risk upsetting them. Best to keep both the old and new appeased. Whatever the reason it's a smashing church with a friendly warm ambience. From the outside it looks rather imposing, but is surprisingly compact inside. It has all the bits and bobs I enjoy.
Although this started out life as a 10th century Saxon church little from this time remains, but we do have three of these charming circular clerestory windows set up high in the wall to admire.
The Norman tub font has some rather fine carvings with a headless, crozier carrying figure being admired by a couple of dragons. There's lots of graffiti nearby too, but not shown.
How about this for a gorgeous Medieval rood screen which is a rare survivor from the Reformation. Those colours...be still my beating heart.
It doesn't matter how many gurning faces I encounter on my travels they still make me laugh. This one is to be found hanging around amusing the masses on the corner of the hagiosphere. He's easy to miss.
Likewise I can never get enough of a Romanesque carved door and my admiration for the workmanship of those stonemasons.
Quite often I find bits of old, damaged masonry tucked away all over the place. They've done something different here by incorporating them into the fabric of the porch where they are protected from the elements. I liked that approach by bringing them back into service and making them part of the building once again.
It made rather a good contrast to have spent the morning looking at the more recent history of the village as I was to then spend the afternoon in the stones. We were asked to perform as part of the ceremony for raising the new archdruid of Avebury which was a huge privilege. It was very moving. For me it was a chance to meet like minded souls and spending a couple of hours in a very special place. I don't suppose I'll get to repeat the experience.
That doorway! I love running my hands across ancient carving knowing I'm touching the same stone that the stonemason handled centuries ago, it give me such a thrill.
ReplyDeleteI'm glad you enjoyed your dance. xxx
Isn't it wonderful. The stonemasons were seen as a group set apart able to travel freely in a way that normal citizens weren't permitted hence the original derivation of Freemason. Arilx
DeleteThe history of the UK, different merges of past cultures shown in architecture is so interesting to me.
ReplyDeleteIt's amazing that we have 5000 years of history within a stone's throw here in Avebury. We often take it for granted all the layers of history that we have here in the UK. Arilx
DeleteThanks for bringing us along! You travel in very interesting circles. (Oh dear, I crack myself up!)
ReplyDeleteI do meet some very different people along the way...mind you the most exciting place I've been this week is the supermarket! Arilx
DeleteYou are on my old territory as far as I am concerned, though not a druid, Avebury does have a special aura. Did you go down to the Swallowhead and see the old willow? I remember years ago when there was a druid meeting and the then leader went to the top of Silbury Hill and blew an instrument, don't know what, and declaimed in a loud voice from there. Not sure English Heritage would allow it now.
ReplyDeleteI know of the Swallowhead, but haven't seen it for myself. However, we now have an open invitation to perform again so maybe next time we'll manage it. You haven't been allowed to climb up Silbury Hill for quite some time, although that doesn't deter some of course. Arilx
DeleteOooh, what a gorgeous church! I was interested to hear your theory about the site chosen for the church. It seems a good reason for it!
ReplyDeleteHow exciting to be part of the Druid's raising! Kezzie x
It certainly was a completely new experience. The church was so welcoming. Arilx
DeleteYour comment about the Saxons building the church outside the circle made me wonder during which century the stones were buried, since they were dug up again in the 17th. I love Avebury. Two of my friends live there and run a community herbal/mushroom clinic. Fred is part of the Mummers so you may have come across them.
ReplyDeleteThe NT did a survey some years ago and established that there are still several stones underground. I believe that one of the former owners of Avebury Manor was responsible for re-erecting the stones. Arilx
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